PESTS

Squirrels

First let me say, Brother Joe from the wilds north of Atlanta e-mailed to report the information at www.havahart.com is an invaluable resource reference to which has enabled him to trap 3 squirrels as of 11/1/01.   I've reviewed the site and agree with Joe on the merit of any time spent perusing what the Havahart folks have to offer.  Joe also cautions that it definitely helps to cut back trees from your home since squirrels can transact LONG jumps  in all axes.  This could involve a considerable expense and may, therefore, not be practical.  Joe says squirrels he knows "love peanut butter and walnuts mixed like a paste ball which I set on the trap spring ... placing some sunflower seeds at opening leading to peanut butter ...then... slice an apple to a couple of pieces toward the back of the trap."  Finally, Joe says beware of trappers who're more interested in repairing your roof than getting the squirrels and I agree.  Once a good trapper's got the squirrels are gone, then get a good roofer to stop'em at eaves, gable vents or any other access.  That stipulated, I return to the method I've found tried and true at the same time encouraging all to contribute any squirrel / rat abatement wisdom you see fit.

Squirrels in the trees are BEST dealt with by recourse to a Have-a-Heart pellet gun if you're a good shot or a Have-a-Heart 16 Ga. shotgun if your marksmanship could use some improvement.  The laws on discharging firearms in residential areas being what they are, neither of these options is probably a good plan so the idea of getting some cats is a reasonable one.  You can have 3 or 4 of the feral ones at my house if you can catch'em.  Proof of their effectiveness lies in the fact that I have no squirrels in my trees or attic.   

To get on with a serious discussion concerning squirrels in the attic, be they flying or grey, the Hardcastle option is the best one I know of .  Get a Havahart trap of the appropriate size and put it in your attic with a brick or stone or something on the trap door so it won't spring shut.  The trap door must be rendered inoperable 'cause sly little squirrels will play with the trap, spring the door and never go near the thing again.  Place a dish of bait inside consisting of either Joe's blend (see above) or the one I use which is unsalted peanuts in the shell, peanuts out of the shell and peanut butter.  Check until it becomes apparent the squirrel(s) have found your peanut based offering.  Don’t be surprised if this step takes a while as, in my experience, squirrels are either real cautious or real stupid.  Only when your bait is being consumed do you take the weight off the trap door so it can  operate normally.   

Once you've trapped the critter(s), do with them as you will.  It'll be necessary to find and block where the squirrel(s) have gotten in.  Usually it's around the perimeter of the roof where roof decking and fascia leave a gap at the eave or along the rake of a gable … both areas intended to be covered with a metal flashing detail called drip edge.  Don’t neglect other access to your home, however, keeping in mind that squirrels can get through incredibly small holes.  You might want to read about drip edge in the roofing section that falls under Home Improvement in our web site. 

Wharf / Norway / rats or Field mice are a more difficult abatement project than squirrels in our opinion cause they seem inclined to pursue a more varied means of access to your home in which they won’t necessarily confine themselves to the attic.  I’ve had one with relates hanging out somewhere in the vicinity of my bathroom for years.  Either the cats can’t get to’em or the rats are too big to fool with.  In any event, the Bagwell Strategy is rumored to be as good a procedure as there is for getting rid of rats and mice.

 Rats

As with squirrels, rats and mice don’t stand up well to an aptly aimed pellet gun or, if you’re not quite up to speed marksmanship wise, a 16 Ga. shotgun.  Also, as with our discussion regarding squirrels, the law tends not to look charitably on wild west tactics in residential neighborhoods.  Bob’s suggested many times that anyone who needs some healthy predatory feral cats can come out to the house and take a stab at gettin’ their hands on 2 or 3.  They all have names, they’re all well fed and most you can’t get within 5 feet of.  While Bob has no squirrel problems EVER, an occasional rat or mouse does present him or her self … the cats dispatch those interlopers if they can get to’em before Bob does with the Bagwell Strategy.   

Rat terriers have been bred for the job of banishing rodents so that’s another possibility.  If you get a good one, rent that sucker out to folks who’ve got rat / mouse problems.  You’re liable to make a lot of money.   

Rats and mice are typically, though not necessarily, nocturnal.  They gnaw on wires and framing, neither of which are good things around the home, they multiply rapidly, they’re nasty and all the rest.  To get rid of’em you first must determine where they hang out because they may or may not go hunting for your baited trap … you got to more or less present it as a convenient object of interest.   

Finding “trails,” as we call them, isn’t particularly difficult if you’re modestly flexible and not too averse to poorly lit close spaces.  Start where you generally hear them.  Rats like attics, mice seem to prefer cabinets and walls.  Check near any accesses to your home.  Ports for  wiring, HVAC equipment or pipes are likely candidates.  Look for wire or wood that’s been chewed on, slick areas in dirt or debris made by the passage of little bodies, tufts of hair, double pointed pellet looking products of digestion, nesting areas … with rats or mice, you’ll recognize the signs when you see’em!!! 

Once you’ve found where they’re likely to be, the hard part’s over.  Now comes implementation of the Bagwell Strategy.  Get you some corn meal, corn kernels, sugar and rat poison.  Rats and mice LOVE sugar.  Mix these ingredients so you end up with something that looks good enough to be rodent irresistible with sufficient bad stuff to do the job.   

If you like living dangerously, simply set this out along your rat / mouse trail and hope one or more of the captured rodents doesn’t expire while traveling in one of your walls.  The odor eventually goes away but not without some unpleasantness in the interim.  If caution is more your syle, bait a Havahart trap.  Handle the results as you see fit.

Don’t rest on your laurels once your rodents have been done away with!!! 

Remember that stuff about trails?  The scent on them will persist.  Others  will be inclined to inspect and see what delights have benefited those who have gone before.  Which is to say, leave your Bagwell Strategy in place making sure no innocent child or pet can get to it.  Once this process has proved out and met with your convicted approval, as it most surely will, please let us hear about it. 

Happy hunting!!!  

JENNIFER GOT IN TOUCH DURING NOVEMBER '05 ASKING ABOUT A BUG ABATING PAINT ADDITIVE HER FATHER HAD USED ON HIS PORCH THAT DETERRED SPIDERS, BEES AND SO FORTH.  I'D NOT HEARD OF SUCH A THING SO I ASKED HER TO LET US KNOW IF SHE TRACKED THE STUFF DOWN.  IT'S CALLED "BUG JUICE" MANUFACTURED BY THE FOLKS AT WALLA WALLA.  THEIR E-MAIL ADDRESS IS:  http://www.wwenvironmental.com/bug_juice.html  IF YOU CAN'T FIND ANY, THE FOLKS AT HANDY OR GENERAL HARDWARE IN ATLANTA WILL SPECIAL ORDER AS MUCH AS YOU NEED. 

JOE  SAYS THE ONLY WAY TO DISCOURAGE MOLES IN YO' YARD IS TO GET RID OF WHAT ATTRACTS'EM THAT BEING GRUBS IN JOE'S CONSIDERED VIEW.  HOW TO GET RID OF GRUBS I HAVEN'T A CLUE BUT YOUR COUNTY EXTENSION SERVICE IF YOU'RE IN GEORGIA, OR ANY GOOD GARDEN CENTER IF YOU AREN'T, SHOULD BE ABLE TO POINT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.