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A
head high stack of vinyl floor tile, surplus from a friend's remodeling
project, has been occupying a corner of our office for almost two years.
During that time, the tile has attracted two old mantles, some found
furniture and assorted other "treasures" we have saved for a
rainy day. Last week, we finally reached overload! The clutter had
achieved critical mass and had to go, impending rainy days or not. We
could not bring ourselves to simply throw the "treasures" into
a waiting dumpster. Environmental concerns aside, the materials were
perfectly good and usable. And, as any child of depression era parents
knows, it is a sin to waste good stuff. Over
the years "The Bob and RodMan Home Show" has been on the radio,
we have received many calls from homeowners, contractors, and suppliers
with a similar problem. What to do with perfectly good surplus building
materials in order to avoid throwing them away. This
week, an answer presented itself by way of Habitat for Humanity, (404)
383-9054. I called them first, but found they did not use the materials
I had to donate. They referred me to The Home Resource and Furniture
Center located at 750 Glenwood Ave., SE, Atlanta, Georgia 30316, between
Moreland Ave. and Boulevard Ave. Home Resource Center's phone number is
(404) 627-4304.
I
spoke with Felicia Bowers of Home Resource who told me the center is
part of a non-profit corporation that accepts donations of good, clean
building materials, furniture and appliances. She was very specific
about the types of donations the Center can accept. Home Resources
Center will take used appliances, plumbing fixtures, etc. as long as
they are clean, do not need repair and have all the necessary parts.
They will accept full lengths of lumber and whole sheets of plywood and
sheetrock. They appreciate good, clean used cabinets, and solid wood
interior doors (no Luan or hollow core) as well as exterior doors. Room
sized pieces of new carpet or sheet goods are welcomed. Ms. Bowers also
told me Home Resource and Furniture Center will take used furniture as
long as it clean and in good repair. This
week, in the face of my clutter crisis, I would have happily loaded the
500 pounds of tile and hauled it to Glenwood Avenue just to get it out
of my office. Happily, Home Resource Center sent a truck to the office.
They loaded the tile, hauled it off and left me with a charitable
donation receipt for Uncle Sam to boot. All in all, it was a great
experience that saved me the guilt of wanton waste. If
you have materials left over from a building project, or some other
items you think are too good to throw away, call Home Resource and
Furniture Center and ask if your treasures can be recycled to help
someone else. Keep
listening to Bob and RodMan every Saturday on WQXI AM790. You never know
what they'll say next. All
the Best, CJ A DO IT
YOURSELFER'S NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTION:
For
the past 19 years, Bob and RodMan have been doing a call in Home-Fix-It
radio show based in Atlanta. With the exception of the occasional call
about an errant love affair, a hot muscle car, or a pet gone astray,
most of the questions Bob and RodMan receive are about how to make your
home better. After a 25 year love-hate relationship with my own 20's
bungalow, I finally have the ultimate answer to all DIY questions: Make
peace with your home.
I
moved into my little bungalow
in 1975 with a heavy heart. The house was a
wreck. With the help of friends, and against all prudence,
we painted
the "hideous" exterior during a very cold January, then
stripped the falling wallpaper with wet rags and no heat. The kitchen
was the worst, with it's green and black linoleum wall covering, no
cabinets or countertops and vestigial ceiling "pie pan" where
the original wood cookstove
had been vented. With the help
of another work party
of friends, we stripped the linoleum and painted
the walls. We could not afford a real kitchen, so we invented
"storage" by hanging everything we owned from the walls and
ceiling. With such a pitiful kitchen, I felt extremely uncomfortable having
anyone except
our closest friends and family in the house. Several years of equity
building later, we were finally able to buy the kitchen we had dreamed
of: built in everything, plenty of cabinets, no need
to hang pots and pans on the walls. During a post renovation open house,
a friend congratulated us on the work, then remembered with great
fondness all the good times we had shared in the old kitchen I had been
so ashamed of. Revelation number one. Another insight came on the day
I was invited to a tour of homes
in a tiny town outside Macon,
Georgia. There were two homes on the tour. Both houses were built before
1860, perhaps by the same builder. The first house was amazing!
The owners had renovated every inch of the house with the most beautiful
and elegant finishes money could buy. The kitchen was fit for a
professional chef. The plaster
In
contrast, the second house on the tour looked a little rough from the
street. The only route to the
house
was up a set of perilously
tilted brick steps, through a garden a little past its prime
to a front door in need of a coat of varnish.
At the door, we were greeted by a
very elegant, elderly lady who told us the home was hers. She said she
had been born in the house, as was her mother. The home
smelled of the thousand
wood fires that had burned in the several fireplaces. No
two doors were the same height, as the house had been added
onto many times, sometimes more skillfully than others. The owner
proudly pointed out the window treatments
and the upholstery on the
beautifully
aged
sofa and chairs, saying she had sewn the curtains and
covered the furniture herself. Though there was peeling paint in a few
spots, and the floors had only a dull
shine, you felt this was a house
that had been loved and well lived in.
It was a house filled with the stories of lives, a
home and householder at peace with each other.
The
final confirmation of
the answer came during a Bob and
RodMan
broadcast. A young mother
from Baton Rouge called and asked how she could remove a drawing her small child had made
with
an indelible marker on the wall of her formal living
room. Instantly, RodMan, the father of two grown
sons, replied that
the mother should seal the little drawing with a clear coat of varnish
then
FRAME
it to insure that it would never be painted over. Being young
and wanting a "perfect" house, the caller had no
concept
of
how quickly her baby would grow up and forget to draw on
the
walls,
and what treasured memories that little drawing would hold. For me, the caller laid the last step in my journey to peace with
my house. No matter what struggles you are having with your bungalow, it may give you comfort to remember that a home is more than a piece of real estate with finishes applied. No matter what stage of evolution your home has achieved, there is pleasure to be found in living in it well and, without shame, letting friends and family in to be the perfect decorations. Whether the house evolves or you do, remember Bob and RodMan's ultimate DIY project: MAKE PEACE WITH YOUR HOME. All the Best, C.J. How Long is that Appliance, Mechanical System or Building Material Gon'na Last? The boys get a LOT of inquiries about how long a water heater or a
dish washer or a furnace or a countertop or a central air system or a
floor is going to last so I thought it would be a good idea to
conduct a little research and come up with a best-guess estimate. Proper installation,
care, maintenance, intensity of use and quality of manufacturing are
going to have a bearing on the durability of an appliance, or anything
else for that matter, so the following life spans are simply intended
for getting an idea of when you might start budgeting to purchase a
replacement.
EVERY LITTLE BIT HELPS OR DOES IT? During the past few weeks, Bob and RodMan have had several callers who were building or renovating and looking for ways to save money in the process. Each suggested taking on some part of the project as a DIY endeavor. In each case, Bob and RodMan discouraged the caller. "Why?" You might ask. Are Bob and RodMan just anti-do it yourselfers? Isn't DIY what they're about? The truth is, when you hire a professional contractor to oversee a project, then interject your less than professional skills into the mix, you may cost the contractor money because of delays and the attendant uncertainty in scheduling subs. In order for a contractor to stay in business and feed the family he/she must make a profit. A good contractor may simply add more to the bid to offset the potential loss from potential delays, offsetting any savings you were trying to achieve. And with good contractors so scarce and in such high demand, your good contractor may simply say: "See ya!" If you really want to get your hands dirty during the process, choose to do demolition BEFORE the contractor begins his/her work, or plan on painting or doing custom trim and built-ins after the contractor has finished the contract work and moved on. The downside of these choices is in the interrupted chain of responsibility for problems. For example, it is possible to create problems in the demolition phase. If you damage parts of the structure the contractor had counted on using, it causes delays and, again, costs the contractor money. The worker's lament: "Why'd they do that?" is the reason most contractors do not want to work behind anyone else, even you, the homeowner. Assuming a project in the final stages of construction may be problematic for a homeowner as well. The quality of the drywall work or finish carpentry may not be obvious until after the primer paint coat is put on. Who is responsible for problems? The contractor should be, but he'll be gone before you know there's trouble. The only leverage you have is to retain part of the contract payout until YOU finish the job. Once again, most good contractors are reluctant to wait on your schedule to get their money. The BEST way to save money on a construction job is to know exactly what you want and expect before you call the contractor. As with most things, the savings are in the planning. Bob and RodMan say it should take four times as long to plan a project as to complete the work. The more time you spend determining your budget, exact plans and specification for the project, the level of quality the job requires, and the specific finishes and accessories you want, the more accurately and conservatively a contractor can bid your job. And the more likely you are to avoid the dreaded and costly change order in the middle of the job. Planning allows you time to shop for price on the items that are important to you, and substitute or compromise where you can, in advance. Planning also allows time for the arrival of special order items. Most impulse buys, made while the workers are sitting idle on the job waiting for you to get back with what they need, result in spending more than you planned or settling for products that will make you unhappy in the long run. No one likes to make the decision to spend money, but advance planning really is the key to saving money. Recently, I interviewed a contractor and asked questions about the cost of building a small cottage in the mountains. The contractor answered that I could spend whatever I wanted to spend, but that I could build within my budget if I made "good decisions." The contractors admonition was not "buy cheap", rather spend the money in areas where "the rubber meets the road." The primary sources of unhappiness in a remodeling job are plumbing fixtures and faucets that don't work properly, flooring and countertop materials that don't hold up, windows that give up and must be replaced, and heating systems that don't provide the comfort they should. You can find good looking "cheap" cabinets that will last until you're tired of them. All UL listed light fixtures are rated as safe until proven otherwise, allowing you to find style in less expensive light fixtures without fear. Shopping for appliances is largely a process of finding the features that are important to you. Plumbing fixtures and floor finishes, windows and the engineering of HVAC systems are different. There are numbers of reasonable looking poor quality plumbing faucets and fixtures on the market that will cause you nothing but frustration. BUY GOOD, NAME BRAND PLUMBING FIXTURES AND FAUCETS! American Standard, Kohler, Eljer, Crane and Moen are a few of the best. Go to a showroom where professionals buy and checkout the plumbing fixtures before you spec them to your contractor. Good choices in plumbing fixtures and faucets will save you money on future plumbing repairs and replacements. Shop for floor coverings and countertops that suit your family's lifestyle. For example, if you have large dogs or lots of active children, a wood floor with gloss polyurethane finish won't look good for very long and you'll be refinishing shortly. Ceramic tile or good linoleum with the right underlayment may be a better choice over the long haul, even though the upfront cost is higher. Countertop materials bear the same consideration. Buy name brand windows and buy for energy efficiency. Cheap windows will loose their seal too soon. Many name brand windows can be customized to fit your dacor, and most carry a replacement warranty. Once again, the front end cost differential between good windows that last and cheap windows that will need to be replaced at your expense is a false savings. In the matter of the heating/cooling system, contractors frequently leave the specifications of the HVAC system to the HVAC sub, making decisions about the system on price rather than your comfort. Don't leave the choices up to your contractor; Do your homework and determine your likes and dislikes about HVAC systems. Meet with the heating contractor and ask questions about the sizing of equipment, air filtration systems, humidifiers or dehumidifiers, the zoning of the system and the location of ducts and vents. DO NOT allow anyone to install fiberglass duct board in your home. Sheet metal duct is much more permanent and sustains fewer allergens that fiberglass duct. Finally, tell the contractor where YOU want the thermostat, or you may find it in the middle of your "gallery" wall, as I did. But I digress. The key to saving money on your construction or remodeling project is one word, PLANNING. Thanks for listening. I cannot tell you how much your messages, calls, E-mails and general "vibes" mean to all of us. All the Best, C.J. If you're a regular Bob and RodMan listener, you may be a DIY aficionado. In that case, you may just want to skip this column, but you'd be surprised at the number of calls Bob and RodMan get from people who listen just to laugh. For the laughers among you, you don't know what you're missing. Fixing things yourself can give you more pleasure than just counting the coins you save. I come from a long line of tinkerers. My grandpa saved old nails and straightened them when the need arose. My dad built our house single handedly. My little brother sawed the legs off the living room sofa at age 2 1/2 and secreted away the bathtub's claw foot legs shortly thereafter. (We never found those things.) From these people, I learned the joys of creating and repairing things with tools. If you don't have a tinkerer's background, it's never too late to start. As Norm from "This Old House" will tell you, you can do
ANYTHING with the right tools. Unfortunately, Norm has gone a little
crazy in the tool department (Caution: they can be addictive) but you
don't need ALL those tools to have a great time. Let's start with
the basics and work up to THE FIRST RULE OF TOOL SHOPPING Buy good tools. Buy good tools. Buy good tools. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to use a toy to do real work. Your time and energy have value so don't spend more of them than necessary because you bought cheap tools. For hand tools, i.e. hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, etc., shop for tools carrying a lifetime warranty that lets you return them to the place of purchase for a replacement if they break. This kind of warranty says the manufacturer believes in their product and the retailer is willing to stand behind the manufacturer. It also means you'll probably never have to take the manufacturer up on that warranty. For power tools, the experts at a first rate hardware store can give you the best information about the features each manufacturer offers in comparable tools. Consumer Reports, Family Handyman, and other such publications may give you some comparisons between tools and tool manufacturers as well. Browse around awhile before you jump in and buy. After features, the next most important factor is the power tool's "ergonomics", i.e., how the tool feels in your hand. No matter how sexy a power tool looks on the rack, check it's weight and balance like you would a tennis racket or golf club. A tool that is too heavy or unwieldy in your grip not only makes the work less fun and more difficult, it can pose a safety hazard as well. Many women who have felt they couldn't do repair work around the house were trying to use someone else's "too large" tools. The right tools make all the difference, just ask Norm. THE BASICS In order to save yourself from the frustration of multiple trips to the hardware store for even simple repairs, do yourself a favor and set up a basic tool kit in advance. Though Bob likes to throw all his tools in an old 5-gallon bucket, I suggest you start with a lightweight, durable toolbox to keep your treasures safe from harm. (Lot's of folks have found that a canvas apron for Bob's 5 gallon bucket, complete with individual pockets for the tools is a good, though weighty, alternative to a toolbox. You'll find the one that works best for you.) Now, outfit the toolbox as follows to tackle the basics: SAFETY FIRST! A good pair of SAFETY GLASSES/GOGGLES. Your eyes are too precious to risk losing one to a shard of glass or metal. A THROWAWAY MASK will protect you from dust and particles when you're insulating, sawing or sanding. You'll need something more elaborate to protect from gases and vapors, but for the basic kit, the dust mask will do. A trusty pair of "mules" LEATHER OR SUEDE GLOVES will save you from splinters and cuts when handling wood, sheet metal or glass. NOW THE TOOLS
These tools are the bare essentials, but they will help you do most of the rudimentary jobs you'll tackle. As time goes by, you'll want to buy some power tools as well as some specialty hand tools. DELUXE Once you're firmly hooked on doing it yourself, start adding the following to "deluxe" your toolbox.
SPECIALTY TOOLS There are a few other tools you can definitely live without UNTIL you need them. With these specialty tools, you'll only use them once in a Blue Moon but there is no substitute for them. In other words, NOTHING ELSE WORKS!
OK. OK. The list of "might as wells" IS endless, and it's easy to get carried away. (Remember Norm?) But tools ARE beautiful and FUN. A final note. Two of the most wonderful tools I've found are a Klein combination wire cutter / stripper and a ceramic hole saw drill bit used for installing tile in certain applications. I found those tools where professionals shop for tools and materials. I was tipped off to their existence by the trained staff that mans counters in supply houses frequented by pros. Don't overlook this source for tools, tips and generous advice. Have a wonderful time fixing all those nagging little things around your house, then you can, in GOOD conscience, settle back and listen to Bob and RodMan just for the laughs! All the Best, CJ Hi!
This is my first entry on Bob and RodMan's Web Site, so bear with me. I
know Bob and RodMan have several pages devoted to paint and painting, but
I'll add my 2 cents here. I
was working in the yard last week when I looked up at the siding and
soffits on my house and discovered that last winter had not been kind.
There was dirt, mildew, and the smoggy residue of life near traffic all
over the house. Obviously I'm not alone. As soon as the pollen count
becomes reasonable, IT'S TIME TO PAINT. As
you've probably heard Bob and RodMan discuss many times over the years,
the most important part of any paint job is the prep work. Paint won't
stick to a surface that is dirty, flaking, peeling or chalky. You've
got to prepare the surface to make sure it's sound before you ever put
a brush into paint. In
the years we have been renovating houses, I've seen exterior latex
paint, on the South side of a house and fully exposed to the elements,
last 10 years or more and look like new, because the painter took the
time to prepare the surface and do the painting by the book. As anyone
who owns a wood frame house will attest, painting is no longer an
inexpensive process. Don't just call a handyman or painter and say a
generic "Come out and paint my house."
If you do, the result may
LOOK fine, but it probably won't last. No one is going to be more
interested in the viability of your paint job than you. If you know how
it should be done, you're much more likely to get it done right. Before
you start shopping for painters, INSPECT your house for problem areas.
This should be an annual event. Spring is a great time for the walk
around. 1)
Don't wait
'til the house needs an entire paint job to touch
up problem spots. The most vulnerable areas are horizontal surfaces such
as windowsills or column bases. Also at risk are wood joints where end
cuts were never painted. Check also areas around gutters which may have
clogged and overflowed, especially soffits and fascia. 2)
Fix the bad spots before they allow moisture to penetrate the
wood and cause further peeling and rot. Spot repairs protect the wooden
subsurface and save time and money when you finally need an entire paint
job. 3)
Spot repairs also keep you from repainting the house as often.
This is important. The fewer coats of paint applied, the better off you
are in the long run. Paint buildup can cause alligatoring, that
unfortunate condition in which the paint surface cracks and crazes. Once
paint alligators, the only way to get a decent paint job is to
strip all the paint down to bare wood and start over. 4)
Keeping the subsurface in good shape will make a full paint job
last longer when you finally have to bite the bullet and call a painter.
It will also save you money because your painter won't have as much
prep to achieve a good job. PEELING
PAINT ISN'T USUALLY THE PAINT'S FAULT. Just
as Bob and RodMan point out in their section on paint, PEELING PAINT
ISN'T USUALLY THE PAINT'S FAULT. You may need to fix some moisture
problems inside the house to keep paint on the outside. 1)
Check out the house for problem areas. Peeling paint is USUALLY
the result of excess moisture inside the house trying to escape
through
the walls. The paint is the last line of resistance for escaping
moisture and will pop off when it is heated by the Sun. 2)
In order to stop the problem, find the source of the moisture and
fix it
before you paint. This may mean increasing attic ventilation,
installing vent fans in the kitchen or bath, repairing leaks around
windows and doors, correcting basement water problems, installing
plastic over earth in crawl spaces, or adding a dehumidifier. THE RECIPE
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