• Make Peace With Your Home.

A NEWLY FOUND RESOURCE

A head high stack of vinyl floor tile, surplus from a friend's remodeling project, has been occupying a corner of our office for almost two years. During that time, the tile has attracted two old mantles, some found furniture and assorted other "treasures" we have saved for a rainy day. Last week, we finally reached overload! The clutter had achieved critical mass and had to go, impending rainy days or not. We could not bring ourselves to simply throw the "treasures" into a waiting dumpster. Environmental concerns aside, the materials were perfectly good and usable. And, as any child of depression era parents knows, it is a sin to waste good stuff.

Over the years "The Bob and Rob Home Show" has been on the radio, we have received many calls from homeowners, contractors, and suppliers with a similar problem. What to do with perfectly good surplus building materials in order to avoid throwing them away.

This week, an answer presented itself by way of Habitat for Humanity,

(404) 383-9054. I called them first, but found they did not use the materials I had to donate. They referred me to The Home Resource and Furniture Center located at 750 Glenwood Ave., SE, Atlanta, Georgia 30316, between Moreland Ave. and Boulevard Ave. Home Resource Center's phone number is (404) 627-4304. 

I spoke with Felicia Bowers of Home Resource who told me the center is part of a non-profit corporation that accepts donations of good, clean building materials, furniture and appliances. She was very specific about the types of donations the Center can accept. Home Resources Center will take used appliances, plumbing fixtures, etc. as long as they are clean, do not need repair and have all the necessary parts. They will accept full lengths of lumber and whole sheets of plywood and sheetrock. They appreciate good, clean used cabinets, and solid wood interior doors (no Luan or hollow core) as well as exterior doors. Room sized pieces of new carpet or sheet goods are welcomed. Ms. Bowers also told me Home Resource and Furniture Center will take used furniture as long as it clean and in good repair.

This week, in the face of my clutter crisis, I would have happily loaded the 500 pounds of tile and hauled it to Glenwood Avenue just to get it out of my office. Happily, Home Resource Center sent a truck to the office.  They loaded the tile, hauled it off and left me with a charitable donation receipt for Uncle Sam to boot. All in all, it was a great experience that saved me the guilt of wanton waste.

If you have materials left over from a building project, or some other items you think are too good to throw away, call Home Resource and Furniture Center and ask if your treasures can be recycled to help someone else.

Keep listening to Bob and Rob every Saturday on WQXI AM790. You never know what they'll say next.

All the Best,

CJ

A DO IT YOURSELFER'S NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTION:

MAKE PEACE WITH YOUR HOME.

EVERY LITTLE BIT HELPS…OR DOES IT?

During the past few weeks, Bob and Rob have had several callers who were building or renovating and looking for ways to save money in the process. Each suggested taking on some part of the project as a DIY endeavor. In each case, Bob and Rob discouraged the caller. "Why?" You might ask. Are Bob and Rob just anti-do it yourselfers? Isn't DIY what they're about?

The truth is, when you hire a professional contractor to oversee a project, then interject your less than professional skills into the mix, you may cost the contractor money because of delays and the attendant uncertainty in scheduling subs. In order for a contractor to stay in business and feed the family he/she must make a profit. A good contractor may simply add more to the bid to offset the potential loss from potential delays, offsetting any savings you were trying to achieve. And with good contractors so scarce and in such high demand, your good contractor may simply say: "See ya!"

If you really want to get your hands dirty during the process, choose to do demolition BEFORE the contractor begins his/her work, or plan on painting or doing custom trim and built-ins after the contractor has finished the contract work and moved on. The downside of these choices is in the interrupted chain of responsibility for problems. For example, it is possible to create problems in the demolition phase. If you damage parts of the structure the contractor had counted on using, it causes delays and, again, costs the contractor money. The worker's lament: "Why'd they do that?" is the reason most contractors do not want to work behind anyone else, even you, the homeowner.

Assuming a project in the final stages of construction may be problematic for a homeowner as well. The quality of the drywall work or finish carpentry may not be obvious until after the primer paint coat is put on. Who is responsible for problems? The contractor should be, but he'll be gone before you know there's trouble. The only leverage you have is to retain part of the contract payout until YOU finish the job. Once again, most good contractors are reluctant to wait on your schedule to get their money.

The BEST way to save money on a construction job is to know exactly what you want and expect before you call the contractor. As with most things, the savings are in the planning. Bob and Rob say it should take four times as long to plan a project as to complete the work. The more time you spend determining your budget, exact plans and specification for the project, the level of quality the job requires, and the specific finishes and accessories you want, the more accurately and conservatively a contractor can bid your job. And the more likely you are to avoid the dreaded and costly change order in the middle of the job.

Planning allows you time to shop for price on the items that are important to you, and substitute or compromise where you can, in advance. Planning also allows time for the arrival of special order items. Most impulse buys, made while the workers are sitting idle on the job waiting for you to get back with what they need, result in spending more than you planned or settling for products that will make you unhappy in the long run. No one likes to make the decision to spend money, but advance planning really is the key to saving money.

Recently, I interviewed a contractor and asked questions about the cost of building a small cottage in the mountains. The contractor answered that I could spend whatever I wanted to spend, but that I could build within my budget if I made "good decisions." The contractors admonition was not "buy cheap", rather spend the money in areas where "the rubber meets the road." The primary sources of unhappiness in a remodeling job are plumbing fixtures and faucets that don't work properly, flooring and countertop materials that don't hold up, windows that give up and must be replaced, and heating systems that don't provide the comfort they should.

You can find good looking "cheap" cabinets that will last until you're tired of them. All UL listed light fixtures are rated as safe until proven otherwise, allowing you to find style in less expensive light fixtures without fear. Shopping for appliances is largely a process of finding the features that are important to you. Plumbing fixtures and floor finishes, windows and the engineering of HVAC systems are different.

There are numbers of reasonable looking poor quality plumbing faucets and fixtures on the market that will cause you nothing but frustration. BUY GOOD, NAME BRAND PLUMBING FIXTURES AND FAUCETS! American Standard, Kohler, Eljer, Crane and Moen are a few of the best. Go to a showroom where professionals buy and checkout the plumbing fixtures before you spec them to your contractor. Good choices in plumbing fixtures and faucets will save you money on future plumbing repairs and replacements.

Shop for floor coverings and countertops that suit your family's lifestyle. For example, if you have large dogs or lots of active children, a wood floor with gloss polyurethane finish won't look good for very long and you'll be refinishing shortly. Ceramic tile or good linoleum with the right underlayment may be a better choice over the long haul, even though the upfront cost is higher. Countertop materials bear the same consideration.

Buy name brand windows and buy for energy efficiency. Cheap windows will loose their seal too soon. Many name brand windows can be customized to fit your décor, and most carry a replacement warranty. Once again, the front end cost differential between good windows that last and cheap windows that will need to be replaced at your expense is a false savings.

In the matter of the heating/cooling system, contractors frequently leave the specifications of the HVAC system to the HVAC sub, making decisions about the system on price rather than your comfort. Don't leave the choices up to your contractor; Do your homework and determine your likes and dislikes about HVAC systems. Meet with the heating contractor and ask questions about the sizing of equipment, air filtration systems, humidifiers or dehumidifiers, the zoning of the system and the location of ducts and vents. DO NOT allow anyone to install fiberglass duct board in your home. Sheet metal duct is much more permanent and sustains fewer allergens that fiberglass duct. Finally, tell the contractor where YOU want the thermostat, or you may find it in the middle of your "gallery" wall, as I did.

But I digress….The key to saving money on your construction or remodeling project is one word, PLANNING.

Thanks for listening. I cannot tell you how much your messages, calls, E-mails and general "vibes" mean to all of us.

All the Best,

C.J.

If you’re a regular Bob and Rob listener, you may be a DIY aficionado. In that case, you may just want to skip this column, but you’d be surprised at the number of calls Bob and Rob get from people who listen just to laugh. For the laughers among you, you don’t know what you’re missing. Fixing things yourself can give you more pleasure than just counting the coins you save.

I come from a long line of tinkerers. My grandpa saved old nails and straightened them when the need arose. My dad built our house single handedly. My little brother sawed the legs off the living room sofa at age 2 1/2 and secreted away the bathtub’s claw foot legs shortly thereafter. (We never found those things….) From these people, I learned the joys of creating and repairing things with tools. If you don't have a tinkerer's background, it’s never too late to start.

As Norm from "This Old House" will tell you, you can do ANYTHING with the right tools. Unfortunately, Norm has gone a little crazy in the tool department (Caution: they can be addictive) but you don’t need ALL those tools to have a great time. Let’s start with the basics and work up to Norm.

Buy good tools. Buy good tools. Buy good tools. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to use a toy to do real work. Your time and energy have value so don’t spend more of them than necessary because you bought cheap tools. For hand tools, i.e. hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, etc., shop for tools carrying a lifetime warranty that lets you return them to the place of purchase for a replacement if they break. This kind of warranty says the manufacturer believes in their product and the retailer is willing to stand behind the manufacturer. It also means you’ll probably never have to take the manufacturer up on that warranty.

For power tools, the experts at a first rate hardware store can give you the best information about the features each manufacturer offers in comparable tools. Consumer Reports, Family Handyman, and other such publications may give you some comparisons between tools and tool manufacturers as well. Browse around awhile before you jump in and buy.

After features, the next most important factor is the power tool’s "ergonomics", i.e., how the tool feels in your hand. No matter how sexy a power tool looks on the rack, check it’s weight and balance like you would a tennis racket or golf club. A tool that is too heavy or unwieldy in your grip not only makes the work less fun and more difficult, it can pose a safety hazard as well. Many women who have felt they couldn’t do repair work around the house were trying to use someone else’s "too large" tools. The right tools make all the difference, just ask Norm.

THE BASICS

In order to save yourself from the frustration of multiple trips to the hardware store for even simple repairs, do yourself a favor and set up a basic tool kit in advance. Though Bob likes to throw all his tools in an old 5-gallon bucket, I suggest you start with a lightweight, durable toolbox to keep your treasures safe from harm. (Lot’s of folks have found that a canvas apron for Bob’s 5 gallon bucket, complete with individual pockets for the tools is a good, though weighty, alternative to a toolbox. You’ll find the one that works best for you.) Now, outfit the toolbox as follows to tackle the basics:

1. A good pair of SAFETY GLASSES/GOGGLES. Your eyes are too precious to risk losing one to a shard of glass or metal.
2. A THROWAWAY MASK will protect you from dust and particles when you’re insulating, sawing or sanding. You’ll need something more elaborate to protect from gases and vapors, but for the basic kit, the dust mask will do.
3. A trusty pair of "mules" LEATHER OR SUEDE GLOVES will save you from splinters and cuts when handling wood, sheet metal or glass.

1. You’ve got to have a "CLAW" HAMMER." A 13 oz. or 16 oz. depending on which feels best to you. Bob and Rob would probably recommend one with a composite handle like fiberglass but it really doesn’t make much difference. Cheap hammers are drop forged and should be avoided. What you’re looking for is a hammer with a head made of polished, tempered steel. Plumb, Stanley, Eastwing, and Craftsman all make good hammers. In addition to a claw hammer, a SMALL FINISHING HAMMER is useful for tacking trimwork where hammer dimples just won’t do.
2. Get some SCREWDRIVERS. #1 and #2 Phillips head and a few flat heads of various sizes. 5 is probably the minimum number you can get away with. It is important that the screwdriver fit the screw as closely as possible.
3. You need some PLIERS. It’s hard to beat a pair of "ELECTRICIAN’S PLIERS" (AKA "LINEMAN’S PLIERS"). A pair of NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS will also be useful on a regular basis. We wouldn’t fool with the adjustable type pliers you’re probably accustomed to. Get a pair of CHANNEL LOCK (brand name) PLIERS instead.
4. Channel Lock also makes an ADJUSTABLE NUT DRIVER that we think is neat. Between it and your pliers, you shouldn’t need any wrenches or sockets.
5. Stanley makes a terrific HAND SAW short enough to fit in a tool box.
6. Good work is square, level and plumb. Its hard to do good work without a level, a square and a tape measure. A SMALL TORPEDO LEVEL is fine for hanging things 6 feet long or shorter like pictures and towel bars. A SPEED SQUARE is the best tool for square cuts. You’ll use your TAPE MEASURE more than most tools in your toolbox. Buy a good, name brand tape at least 25’ long and make sure it’s at least ¾" wide. Narrow tapes are too wimpy to use by yourself and will cause you endless grief for the few bucks you save. The fluorescent colors on some of the newer models, make a tape measure harder to loose. 
7. A RETRACTABLE UTILITY KNIFE AND SEVERAL BOXES OF BLADES are essential for sheetrock, electrical work, you name it. A RAZOR SCRAPER, also retractable with EXTRA BLADES will scrape old paint from windows and is also a good general cleanup tool.
8. PUTTY KNIVES, A 1" AND A FLEXIBLE 4" KNIFE will take care of most projects where joint compound or spackling are called for. They're good for scraping too.
9. If you plan to do ANY electrical repairs, buy a WIRE STRIPPER! It is a "one use" tool, but NOTHING works nearly as well.
10. A PRYBAR or "Cheater" bar is a lever for removing molding, flooring, etc. It’ll also help you pull nails. A CAT"S PAW is the ideal tool for pulling nails, especially ones with small heads. Though you can get by without one, it’s an extremely satisfying tool to own.
11. A small ANODIZED ALUMINUM FLASHLIGHT fits easily into the toolbox, is lightweight, and when you need some light, you’ll be happy to have it handy.
12. Get a good, trigger fed CAULKING GUN. It’s the only way to tackle many weatherization jobs. Pass up the cheap ones on sale at the checkout counter. They’re guaranteed trouble. As with all tools, if you keep your caulking gun clean, it’ll probably last a lifetime.
13. Your toolkit’s usefulness is exponentially increased by the addition of an electric drill. A 3/8" VARIABLE SPEED REVERSIBLE DRILL to be exact. Some recommend cordless, but we’d start with the plug in type and work up to two drills, one of which is cordless. To cover all the bases, throw in a BOX OF ASSORTED DRILL BITS with a screw gauge inside. Add a MAGNETIC DRIVER HOLDER and some SCREWDRIVER BITS and the drill becomes a screwdriver.
14. You’ll need an extension cord for the drill and any power tools you buy later. The ideal is a GROUNDED 30FT. DROP CORD OF 16 GAUGE WIRE.

These tools are the bare essentials, but they will help you do most of the rudimentary jobs you’ll tackle. As time goes by, you’ll want to buy some power tools as well as some specialty hand tools.

Once you’re firmly hooked on doing it yourself, start adding the following to "deluxe" your toolbox.

1. An ELECTRIC PALM SANDER will save your elbow grease on painting project, finish carpentry, and furniture repair.
2. A HAND MITRE SAW. This lets you cut good miter joints for molding, craft projects, etc.
3. A HACKSAW for cutting plumbing pipes, copper, plastic or galvanized metal.
4. A set of WOOD CHISELS is useful for gouging wood surfaces to install hinges or locks.
5. A COLD CHISEL and a 5 LB BABY SLEDGEHAMMER will allow you to work on mortar joints or broken tile.
6. If you’re going to take on a job that involves a lot of cutting, get a POWER SAW, referred to generically as a SKILL SAW, but be sure you buy one that you are comfortable handling and use extreme caution every time you work with it. This tool is as dangerous as any tool used in construction. It’ll deliver a nasty bite if not handled with respect. READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL AND LEARN EVERYTHING YOU CAN ABOUT USING IT SAFELY.
7. A plug-in ELECTRICAL TESTER can help you locate trouble spots in the electrical system for simple electrical repairs. I join with Bob and Rob in urging you to leave your electrical system alone unless you REALLY know what you’re doing.
8. LARGE AND SMALL "C" CLAMPS, 2 of each size, and the same of SPRING CLAMPS are invaluable as an extra pair of hands for nailing, gluing, or just holding your work steady.
9. A 30" LEVEL is a must for framing walls, decks, or any large-scale project.
   

There are a few other tools you can definitely live without UNTIL you need them. With these specialty tools, you’ll only use them once in a Blue Moon but there is no substitute for them. In other words, NOTHING ELSE WORKS!

1. The first one that comes to mind is a WATER METER KEY. Unless your house has a central cutoff under the house, which is unlikely in houses more than 10 years old, the meter is the only way to cut off all water to the house in the event of a broken pipe or other catastrophe. A water key is the only way to turn off the main valve at the meter. (I, who witnessed a geyser wash away my front yard after a water line break, will testify to this.)
2. A BASIN WRENCH is the only tool to use when removing or replacing a faucet. Nothing else will fit into the ledge where the faucet sits. Utter frustration is trying to tackle this project with your hand and a pipe wrench.
3. A GLAZING TOOL. You can use a putty knife for inserting the push points in windows and putting on new glazing compound but the glazing tool is inexpensive and does the work of several tools much more efficiently. It is truly a remarkable tool for its usefulness and simplicity.
4. Finally, a PLUMBING TORCH. This one is the work of the Devil…dangerous and difficult to use, but nothing else works for "sweating" (soldering) joints in copper pipe or removing damaged pipes for replacement. With this one you definitely need a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy.

OK. OK. The list of "might as wells" IS endless, and it’s easy to get carried away. (Remember Norm?) But tools ARE beautiful and FUN.

A final note. Two of the most wonderful tools I’ve found are a Klein combination wire cutter / stripper and a ceramic hole saw drill bit used   for installing tile in certain applications. I found those tools where professionals shop for tools and materials. I was tipped off to their existence by the trained staff that mans counters in supply houses frequented by pros. Don’t overlook this source for tools, tips and generous advice.

Have a wonderful time fixing all those nagging little things around your house, then you can, in GOOD conscience, settle back and listen to Bob and Rob just for the laughs!

All the Best,

CJ